Bringing a ray of sunshine & colour to Covent Garden
The third Delamina restaurant opens in Tavistock Street.
Regular readers might remember we reviewed Delamina Marylebone for the website last year. Since then, owners Limor and Amir Chen have opened their third restaurant, this time on Tavistock Street in Covent Garden. I loved my visit to Delamina Marylebone, so it was about time I got myself down to Covent Garden to visit Delamina Townhouse.
My joy of finally making it into Delamina Townhouse was compounded by the fact that I would be sharing lunch with two foodie friends who both have an encyclopedic knowledge of the London restaurant scene past and present. I was in my element.
First impressions of the restaurant are very different from those of the Marylebone restaurant. Delamina Marylebone is more of an open space with tables quite close together; it has a buzzy vibe. Delamina Townhouse is a grown-up version of its sister in terms of space, with the front section featuring window bay seating and alcoves—a restaurant to relax in over a long lunch. By the way, that’s not a criticism of the Marylebone restaurant; it has a great atmosphere, it’s just that they have a different vibe.
We were seated in a lovely window bay table, which consisted of 2 seats and a mini sofa seat, which forms part of the downstairs area of the restaurant, which also includes a nice bar area and dining room, as you can see from the pictures below its a lovely space.
For warm days, there is table seating in the front of the restaurant.
All three Delamina locations have their own identities, which are evident in their menus. While there are a few Delamina house dishes featured on each menu, the rest of the offerings are distinctly different.
We decided to start with sharing plates for our meal. To kick things off, we ordered crispy oyster mushrooms served with truffled artichokes and the house hummus, accompanied by peppers and tomato roe, We added the croquettes filled with leek, feta, and sun-dried tomatoes. We also decided on venison and lamb koftas accompanied by a delightful pistachio cream, and finally ordered a wonderful kohlrabi carpaccio topped with feta and pistachios.
I wish I had a picture of all the dishes together, as Limor’s food is so colourful, it was a bright sunny day outside, and the table reflected that sunshine. Colour is one thing, but how about the flavours and taste, I hear you say?
A very brief summary, the Delamina hummus is delightful, so much so that as I wrote this, I just had to get hummus from my fridge to eat (it was lunchtime), not quite the same as Delamina’s, but it helped. The croquettes were a lovely twist on the usual fish or meat versions found on restaurant menus. Now to the kohlrabi, it tasted so good and as a carpaccio it worked so well, here is a thing, dear reader, I know very little about this humble vegetable, so I googled recipes, it can be baked or go in stews, used in salads, and pickled. If any of these tastes anywhere as good as the Carpaccio, then I’m in for a treat. Finally the Koftas, these were on the plate for a few seconds, just time for me to take a quick picture and grab the last one.
The conversation at the table was lively, filled with discussions about great chefs, memorable meals, and notable restaurants, along with the latest hot spots and places we have visited. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any notes, which would have looked a bit odd anyway, but I only wish I could remember more of what we talked about.
So, it’s time for mains, we chose two dishes, a Delamina favourite, grilled chicken ras-el-hanout, served with sweet potato. Ras-el-hanout and chicken are made for each other. We all were tempted and ordered Hake chermoula, which had giant couscous (I did not know there was such a thing), roasted artichokes, and dill yoghurt. It tasted as good as it looked. We also had to order a side of crispy rosemary potatoes with garlic-infused yoghurt. I think every table must order these as a side; they are irresistible.
A quick mention on the wines and drinks, wine by the glass, starts at £7 and bottles £30, and house cocktails £14, so prices are reasonable for the centre of town.
At this stage, we were asked about desserts, with three serious foodies on the table, do you need to ask and no sharers on this course. Two of us ordered the chocolate mousse, with olive oil, also ordered was a Kadayif nest, vanilla cheesecake cream with caramelised pecans and orange peel.
I love the addition of the olive oil to the mousse, and by all accounts, the deconstructed cheesecake was seriously good.
After the meal, we had a quick tour of the restaurant’s second floor, which is split into two spaces. Owners Limor and Amir Chen have such good taste, as you can see by the photo’s the decor is stunning.
I’m told the upstairs can be hired as a private dining room or split into two rooms, which would be ideal for small gatherings or celebrations.
To sum up, Delamina Townhouse is a great addition to the Delamina family, but reassuringly, it has its own distinct character as a restaurant, with all the attributes that make eating here a pleasing experience. Great food and service, relaxed atmosphere and value for money.
You will find Delamina Townhouse at 13-15 Tavistock St, London WC2E 7PS.
