People often ask me if I ever review restaurants outside Mayfair. Well, dear reader, they clearly have not read my website. Just in recent months, I have ventured out of Mayfair to faraway places like Soho, Marylebone and even Bishopsgate. I even went to the deepest depths of Surrey – well, Esher actually – but it felt like a long way to go to Nick Beardshaw’s wonderful Starling restaurant. Well, I’ve been on my travels again, this time to the eclectic and charming Portobello Road, to visit Japanese-influenced restaurant and bar Ukai. Read on to find out if my culinary travels were rewarded.
For those of you visiting London, at the end of this review I will give you some background on the area, as it is most definitely a part of West London that is worth a visit. But now, as we are a food website, there are important matters at hand – namely, our visit to Ukai restaurant and bar. This Japanese restaurant shines like a beacon from its impressive corner plot on the junction of Portobello Road and Lancaster Road. The site used to be the Market Bar and, before that, the Golden Cross pub. Today, Ukai is illuminated by a striking piece of street art depicting what seemed to me to be Japanese geisha (I could well be wrong), but in any case, there is no way you are going to walk past Ukai without noticing it.
What Does Ukai Mean?
The name Ukai refers to the ancient Japanese cormorant fishing method, using trained cormorants to catch fish. To this day, you can see this traditional fishing technique on the Nagara River in Japan, where it remains a popular tourist attraction. I did take a peek at Ukai fishing on YouTube, it was fascinating.
The Interior
Getting back to Ukai on Portobello Road – thankfully, there is not a cormorant in sight. Entering the restaurant, you are immediately struck by the Japanese influences on the décor. It is minimalist but with well-placed splashes of colour, and the bar forms an impressive centrepiece to the dining space.
The Menu
Looking at the menu, its roots are firmly in Japan with Robata-style cuisine at its heart. Robata, meaning ‘fireside cooking’, is a traditional Japanese grilling method where ingredients are cooked over hot charcoal, imparting a wonderful smoky flavour. Alongside the Japanese foundation, I’m picking up a slight fusion of Mediterranean and South American influences, which adds an exciting twist to the dining experience.
The menu starts with a hot starter selection – we went for the truffle edamame beans just to wake up the taste buds. There is plenty on offer from the raw section, including sashimi and nigiri, as well as a large selection of special rolls. The tempura offering highlights fish, chicken and vegetables. The Robata and hot dishes showcase meats including Korean lamb cutlets and Japanese Wagyu beef, while from the fish counter, black cod and roasted halibut caught my eye. Finally, Ukai’s menu is complete with seven signature dishes, no less.
So how did we choose from the above? With difficulty, is the honest answer. But with the help of our waiter, we made our choices.
From the ceviche range, we went for sea bass, with subtle and fresh flavours. Alongside the ceviche, we chose salmon tartare served on crispy rice with a citrus sauce – the crispy rice added texture and a new dimension to the delightful salmon. Next came raw salmon and tuna, served on a bed of ice, accompanied by a side of fresh baby spinach with sesame sauce and peanuts.
Next up were the fire rolls – these were so good, and although spicy, the heat was manageable. To finish, we were persuaded by our waiter to try the baby beef short ribs. He said the beef was melt-in-the-mouth, and he was not wrong – this was a very special dish.
All the dishes were beautifully presented. I so admire the precision of Japanese cuisine, and Ukai showcased that skill perfectly. Considering the choices, I thought we chose well for lunch – so many highlights, but also many more dishes to experience another time. Our first experience of Ukai’s food was memorable.
Cocktails and Bar
Many restaurants claim they have a bar, only for you to find a small corner of the restaurant with a few bottles. Not so at Ukai. They have retained the original wooden bar from the pub, which, as well as being a characterful feature, provides a generous bar space for diners and drinkers alike. Alongside a large selection of wines, they have an interesting signature cocktail selection which, you won’t be surprised to hear, we sampled – all in the name of research, you know.
Weekend Entertainment
I’m told that on weekend afternoons, Ukai becomes a focal point for locals and visitors alike, with live music providing the entertainment. The bar and restaurant are packed, creating a vibrant atmosphere that perfectly complements the eclectic spirit of Portobello Road.
Conclusion
In a culinary sense, Portobello Road is a melting pot of different cuisines, with many restaurants to choose from. It’s clear that Ukai, celebrating ten years on the street, has stood the test of time and offers something unique as both a restaurant and bar in Notting Hill. It is fun, casual and relaxed, yet takes its food offering seriously – which, for me, is the perfect mix. Whether you’re looking for Japanese small plates, Robata-grilled dishes, or simply a spot to enjoy cocktails with friends, Ukai delivers on all fronts.
Why Visit Portobello Road
If you have never visited Portobello Road, you are missing a treat. This iconic West London street rose to fame thanks to the 1999 film Notting Hill, but its charm runs far deeper than Hollywood glamour. If you’ve ever visited the North Laine in Brighton, you’ll find a similar spirit here – that wonderful mix of independent shops, vintage finds, quirky boutiques and buzzing café culture. The key difference? Portobello Road does it on a grander scale, stretching almost a mile through the colourful streets of Notting Hill.
The market truly comes alive on Saturdays, when stalls selling everything from Georgian silverware to rare first-edition books line the street. Pop into the arcades and you’ll find everything from vintage jewellery to rare vinyl – the latter being of particular interest to me. To get here, the nearest stations are Notting Hill Gate at the southern end and Ladbroke Grove to the north. I’d recommend starting at Notting Hill Gate and working your way up – finishing with dinner at Ukai.
Where to Find Ukai
Ukai Restaurant and Bar
Corner of Portobello Road & Lancaster Road, Notting Hill, London
Nearest Stations:
Ladbroke Grove – Hammersmith & City and Circle lines
Notting Hill Gate – Central, District and Circle lines
