A Modern British Gem in the Heart of Soho
What is Modern British Cuisine?
When you mention dining at an Italian or French restaurant, the response is often a simple ‘Was it good?’ But say you’re visiting Nessa Soho, a modern British restaurant, and you’re likely to get a puzzled ‘What’s that?’ Defining modern British cuisine isn’t so straightforward—what should you expect? My recent visit to Nessa Soho shed light on this culinary conundrum, and the following paragraphs dive into its vibrant inspiration, its visionary chef, and a meal that left an impression.
A Bloomsbury group inspired Setting
Nessa, a restaurant and bar, sits on the corner of Brewer and Warwick Streets, on the site of the former Warwick pub. Opened in 2023, Nessa draws its name and inspiration from Vanessa Bell, affectionately known as ‘Nessa’ to her friends. Bell was a key figure in the Bloomsbury Group, a collective of early 20th-century artists and intellectuals known for their bold, modernist creativity. This spirit is reflected in Nessa Soho’s artful design and culinary philosophy, blending nostalgia with contemporary flair.
Step Inside Nessa’s Art Deco Charm
Stepping into Nessa, you immediately sense that inspiration. The décor mixes Art Deco elegance with contemporary touches, creating a sophisticated yet welcoming vibe. You enter through a spacious, relaxed bar, leading to a 98-cover dining room with an open kitchen and banks of large windows that flood the space with natural light.
On a midweek lunchtime, I was pleased to see the bar bustling and nearly every table taken in the restaurant—luckily, we had booked.
Exploring the Menu
The lunch and dinner menu is divided into four sections: nibbles, cold plates, over coal, and hot plates. Executive Chef Tom Cenci’s inventive and playful approach is evident here, and the menu offers plenty of food for thought (I can’t believe I wrote that either!).
Starters: A Fresh Revelation
For starters, to my delight, Leigh chose a dish of heritage tomatoes, strawberries, radish, and hot honey sauce from the cold plates menu. My enthusiasm stemmed from knowing I’d get to try my favourite tomatoes. I was torn between the aged beef tartare and the salmon crudo, both popular starters. Indecision is a regular occurrence for me, but the salmon crudo won the day.
If you think tomatoes are watery and tasteless, you likely haven’t tried heritage tomatoes. These are a world apart from the inferior varieties found on supermarket shelves—regular readers will know I often rant about supermarket tomatoes. The combination of tomatoes and strawberries was a revelation, elevated by the hot honey sauce with a pleasant spicy kick.
I eagerly awaited my salmon crudo, served with fennel, trout caviar, and English muffin toast. The salmon was dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, and a hint of chilli, with softened fennel topped with dill. The muffin toast was a clever touch (one I will borrow), encapsulating Tom Cenci’s innovative approach to modern British dishes.
Mains: Seabream or Coronation Chicken?
For mains, Leigh was decisive, opting for pan-roasted Cornish cod with parsley sauce, British spuds, and herring roe. I, however, wavered between the retro coronation chicken and chargrilled seabream. My decision was sealed when our waitress walked past with the seabream for another table—that was it for me. Had she carried coronation chicken, it might’ve been a different story. The coronation chicken will wait for another day.
The seabream, served with an unctuous brown shrimp and peppercorn butter sauce alongside fine green beans, was a triumph. We also ordered sides of “spice bag” potatoes with chilli and peppers, and charred broccoli with Caesar dressing.
The fish was cooked perfectly, and the sauce was a joy—such a good choice. Leigh’s cod was equally impressive; I couldn’t choose a favourite. I’d order either in a heartbeat.
A quick word on the sides: the “spice bag” potatoes, recommended by our waitress, transported me to the flavours of India with their mix of peppers and chillies. The charred broccoli, with its smoky notes tempered by Caesar dressing, was equally delightful. Both were great additions to our mains.
Dessert: A Ginger Kick
The dessert menu featured twists on British classics, including treacle sponge, chocolate mousse, and a cheese option described as “a very good British cheese.” We opted to share a Jamaican ginger sticky pudding with caramelised milk ice cream and ginger syrup. The pudding was dispatched in a heartbeat. From the mains to the dessert, one thing stood out about Nessa’s food: the flavours are bold and distinct, each ingredient shining through. The ginger kick in the pudding exemplified this—no holding back, just pure, vibrant flavour.
Defining Modern British at Nessa
So, what is modern British cuisine? Our lunch at Nessa Soho revealed it’s about celebrating the familiar with a bold, creative twist. Tom Cenci’s dishes take nostalgic British staples—think English muffins, cod, or sticky pudding—and elevate them with unexpected pairings, like hot honey or trout caviar, and a focus on seasonal, local ingredients. It’s playful yet precise, rooted in tradition but unafraid to surprise, making Nessa a perfect answer to the question, ‘What’s that?’
Visit Nessa Soho
Nessa Soho operates as an all-day dining destination, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. You’ll find it at 86 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 9UB, a three-minute walk from Piccadilly Circus station. Visit nessasoho.com for more details.
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