Lunch at the counter at Michelin-starred Sabor
Sometimes, for some unexplained reason, there are restaurants that you always intend to visit but, for one reason or another, have never been. For me, Sabor falls firmly in that category. As a regular visitor to Heddon Street, I have passed Sabor with more than an envious glance at the diners. Also, I have always enjoyed watching Chef and co-owner Nieves Barragan cook on her many TV appearances. My visit was long overdue, and it was about time I visited Sabor.
As it was the birthday of a couple of very good friends, we decided to have lunch to celebrate, and as it was my choice, I suggested Sabor. In case you were wondering the name Sabor means flavour in Spanish.
The plan for us was to eat at the counter section at Sabor, and the counter is walk-in only, serving Tapas-style dishes with a large section of daily “special” dishes to accompany the small menu. A Michelin-starred restaurant accepting walk-ins is a good idea and should be encouraged. The demand for the coveted counter seats is high. Sabor opened at 12 for lunch, and we arrived 10 minutes after opening. The restaurant was already busy, especially at the counter, but luckily, we managed to get in. If you consider going, each counter seat will turn over twice during lunch; however, our three seats were in for the long haul.
There is more to Sabor than the counter. El Asador, the upstairs dining area, is reservation only, as is La Mesa, the downstairs table that seats ten people. El Asador offers a feast menu and a selection of starters and mains. The Segovian Suckling pig is the signature dish of El Asador. La Mesa table has a tasting menu on offer. When we were in, we saw a beautiful slow-cooked leg of lamb being delivered to a group dining at La Mesa. Thirty minutes later, we saw the same plate being returned with only a clean bone left.
So, back to the counter and our visit. As an appetiser, we chose Black Trumpette Croquetas; they looked so good and could have been made by a master chocolatier. The creamy taste, rich with mushroom flavours, dispelled any the sweet looks. The “specials” of the day had a fish influence, and we ordered the calmares in a romesco sauce, diver-caught scallops, and a whole lemon sole in an ajada (garlic and paprika sauce). We also added the Pig’s cheeks with celeriac puree. It was my first time eating pig’s cheeks for my two friends, and I’m confident it will not be the last time.
We ordered a delicious dish of Octopus Mojo Rojo, baby potatoes, and a Txistorra Tortilla from the menu. The only issue with the Tortilla is that it makes the Tortilla served in most Tapas restaurants seem very average. As you can see from the picture, the Tortilla was firm on the outside but what you can’t see was that the middle was soft inside. That is the traditional and best way to cook a Tortilla. Add that Txistorra sausage and aioli, and you have a simple but stunning classic dish.
One of the best things about eating at the counter is that you have a ringside seat to see what it takes to run a Michelin-starred kitchen. We watched our scallops and lemon sole being delicately cooked on the grill, and it was fascinating to see how the kitchen coped with the endless orders without fuss. There was no shouting, just calm instructions and communication from each section. It was very impressive and added to our experience.
It has taken me a long time to get through the door, and I’m left wondering why. That said, I intend to make up for lost time, and the good people at Sabor will see me again soon. Salud!
Sabor 35-37 Heddon Street, London W1B 4BR
If you enjoyed reading about Sabor, you might enjoy reading about all the restaurants in Heddon Street with our guide to Heddon Street
