Table of Contents
1 The grand elder statesman of Mayfair restaurants and pubs
When I’m asked about Mayfair or my website, it is usually followed by “I’ve been to the Guinea Grill”. The Guinea is a Mayfair institution and an establishment that has led the way in providing a great pub with a fine-dining restaurant.
Open any pub guide to London, and the Guinea Grill will be featured somewhere; it is legendary among London pubs
I have been to the Guinea Grill lots of times for a pint and a classic pub snack, but today is my first visit to the restaurant.
We arrived early, which was a great opportunity to pop into the pub for a quick half before lunch. The Guinea Grill is the only pub I can think of that. On most days, you are welcomed by the doorman, who is fully dressed in full top hat and tails. This is no ordinary pub.
2 Menu
The Guinea Grill has built its reputation on serving traditional British fare with a focus on beef.
Below is a quick overview of the current menu.
Starters
Big powerful dishes include Lamb Faggots, and Devilled Kidneys. Oysters, scallops, Prawn cocktail and smoked salmon make up the fish options. Waldorf and Caesar salads make an appearance.
Mains
The focus is on prime cuts of beef, lamb cutlets and hearty mixed grills. Fish of the day and vegetarian risotto are included.
The Guinea Grill is also famous for its pies, including a vegetarian option.
Desserts
Apple crumble, creme brulee, and chocolate fondant continue the theme of British favourites, and for a savoury hit, Welsh Rarebit, which is very old school but a welcome addition.
Wine List
There is a very chunky wine list; I have to confess we asked for assistance from the sommelier as there were far too many choices for me to comprehend.
I should mention that if you want to experience The Guinea Grill’s food the pub bar snack menu includes pies, lamb cutlets, oysters, welsh rarebit and a lovely sausage roll.
3 Our Lunch
On the way in, we pass the steaks in the cold cabinet and are given a brief introduction to the various cuts on the menu
So, what to eat? The menu pulls no punches and offers
My lunch guest today was my good friend, Michael. It was also his first time dining at the Guinea.
After a consultation with our waiter, who knew the menu inside out guided us and explained the options. It became clear that we both wanted to experience the free-range beef supplied by Godfrey’s at Finsbury Park for over 60 years. So, a plan was hatched, and we decided to start with oysters, then a middle course of Devilled kidneys and the mains of a Porthouse Steak (sirloin and fillet). All courses to share. Our expectations levels rose.
Starters-Fresh Oysters with Shallot Mignonette
The oysters are fresh every day from Ireland and served the traditional way. At this early stage of the article, I’ve already used the words “classic” and “traditional”, so from now on I’m going to assume you know everything served is steeped in tradition.
The oysters arrived served with shallot mignonette (finely chopped shallots in vinegar and pepper) and accompanied with a pint of Guinness.
For me, oysters can be served deep fried, maybe in breadcrumbs or indeed just cooked, and in a beef and oyster pie, which I should mention is on the menu at The Guinea, but served simply in their shells served on ice, in my opinion, is just perfect, especially with a great pint of Guinness, which this hostelry is famous for.
I’m not a publican or cellarman, but can anybody tell me why Guinness varies so much from pub to pub? It is all brewed and casked at the same place, but the Guinness can vary so much; I’ve had some pints of the Irish stout that would make Arthur Guinness turn in his grave. Thankfully, no need to worry here the Guiness is great and you will be pleased to know my Guinness rant is over.
Middle Course-Devilled Kidneys
Now, I’m struggling not to use the words I’ve used already, so rather than use the same adjective repeatedly, I will say Devilled Kidneys date back to the Victorian era.
For those of you who have never experienced them, they are served on toast with a spicy sauce that should leave the toast slightly soggy; just trust me on this one. The recipes do vary but most would include Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and cayenne pepper. They should pack a punch.
Ours arrived exactly as described, the kidneys cooked perfectly, slightly pink, and the sauce started creamy with a spicy kick, and yes, the toast arrived slightly soggy.
When people complain that British food can be bland, they have not tried this dish. If this plate were served as a Spanish tapas dish, the whole world would be in raptors about riñones diabólicos; instead they are left to us Brits to savour, lucky us.
I should mention that we had finished our Guinness and moved on to an excellent Pino Noir
, As you can probably guess from the above, we very much enjoyed our first two courses
Mains – Porthouse Steak
A quick word about the sides for our Steak: we ordered potato gratin, spinach in creme sauce, and broccoli served in anchovy oil and chilli.
The steak arrived to nods of appreciation from us and also the table next to us; their turn would come.
Our steak was served medium rare, the balance between the sirloin and fillet worked well, and the sides added to the enjoyment, all bold enough not to be overpowered by our big porterhouse.
If you like your steaks, then you are in for a treat at the Guinea Grill, great meat-cooked to perfection
Desserts
We went our own way on this one; I had the Creme Brulee, and Michael favoured the Lemon Posset.
The sweet notes were needed after the savoury courses; the brulee had the regulation crack of the caramelised sugar topping. The Lemon posset was as it should be, with a burst of Lemon flavour cutting through the creme.
If you have read my previous reviews, you will know I’m partial to dessert wine and it’s only correct to report back that we each had a glass with the desserts. The perfect way to finish our meal.
4 History
There has been an Inn on the site since 1432
The Guinea Grill has a rich history dating back to 1675, the year when the rebuilding of St. Paul’s Cathedral began after the Great Fire of London, which had happened nine years earlier. The place started as a modest inn, which served ale to the working-class people of the area.
In the 1950s, the steakhouse was established by a tenant named Alistair, who envisioned catering to American tourists and serving high-quality Scotch beef from Aberdeenshire. This turned the Guinea Grill into a popular spot for celebrities, politicians, and other esteemed individuals.
To this day, the restaurant continues to serve delicious steaks from around the UK, focusing on quality that a third-generation butcher upholds. The combination of culinary excellence, traditional London pub atmosphere, and warm hospitality has kept the Guinea Grill popular for over six decades.
5 Conclusion
The Guinea Grill promised a great meal and more than delivered. It is great to see that British cuisine can still cut the mustard (English, of course).
Good food starts with excellent produce, and then it is up to the Kitchen and front-of-house team to create a meal and atmosphere that delivers guests a great culinary experience.
We were lucky enough to enjoy all of the above today.
To me, the biggest compliment I can pay The Guinea Grill is for a restaurant that has been serving steaks since 1952 it acts if it is a new kid on the block, with no complacency, no ego, just continuing to please and feed its guests.
6 Refurbishment March 2024
The Guinea Grill closed at the end of December 2023 for a major refurbishment. Regular diners to “The Grill” will testify to the small dining area and refurbishment. The building next door was acquired to increase the dining space for London’s oldest steak house.
The net result is that from 1st March 2024, the Guinea Grill has added sixty extra covers plus two private dining areas.
We had exclusive access to the new areas and are delighted to say that while they have increased the dining capacity and maintained the original restaurant’s decor and charm, the work and design have been carried out to the highest standard.
There is another large dining area, which will maintain and encourage the informal “buzz” that Guinea Grill regulars enjoy.
In addition, they have added a lovely snug area, which will also be popular. Upstairs are two private dining rooms, one for 16 guests and the other for ten diners. Both are different in decor but have maintained a cosy atmosphere. Private dining is increasingly popular, and these two rooms will be very popular.
So that’s it. Traditionalists need not worry. The additional space has been sympathetically refurbished to match the existing building. I’m looking forward to eating there soon.
The Guinea Grill, 30 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London W1J 6NL
