Sometimes the best things come in the most unassuming packages
You know how they say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover? Well, the same goes for restaurants, and Trivet is living proof of this age-old wisdom. Tucked away in London Bridge, this two-Michelin-starred gem doesn’t exactly scream “I’m fabulous, look at me!” from the street. In fact, if you blinked, you might walk right past it. But trust me when I say that would be your loss.
The Setting: Understated Elegance
Owned by the talented duo Isa Bal and Jonny Lake, Trivet has been quietly working its magic since 2019. The interior won’t have you reaching for your phone to snap Instagram-worthy shots of dramatically lit dining rooms or theatrical décor. Instead, what you’ll find is a refreshingly honest space that lets the food do all the talking. And trust me when I say, it does have plenty to say.
If you’re someone who needs all the bells and whistles — the sort who judges a restaurant by its chandelier count or the prominence of its golden fixtures — then Trivet might not be your cup of tea. But if you’re after substance over style, you’ve hit the jackpot.
The Food: Where Magic Actually Happens
We kicked things off with what can only be described as the most indulgent lobster roll I’ve ever had the pleasure of demolishing. Served in perfectly toasted brioche, this wasn’t just a starter — it was a statement of intent. The sort of dish that makes you sit up straighter and think, “Right, I’m clearly in for something special here.”
The menu offers both à la carte options and a more wallet-friendly lunch menu, which is rather thoughtful of them, really. We sampled from both, because when you’re at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, moderation feels like a wasted opportunity. The sea bass crudo was a lesson in precision, whilst the intriguingly named “drunk lobster Trivet noodles” from the à la carte selection had us all rather curious. Spoiler alert: it lived up to its mysterious moniker.
For mains, I opted for the roast rump of lamb from the lunch menu, and I’m pleased to report it was exemplary. But here’s the thing that really caught my attention — the accompanying hot potato salad. Now, I know what you’re thinking: “A potato salad? That’s what you’re raving about?” But hear me out. This wasn’t just any potato salad. This was potato salad that had been elevated to an art form, transformed through careful technique and seasoning into something quite remarkable. It’s these unexpected flourishes that mark Trivet out as somewhere truly special. Around the table also tried the John Dory ‘Picchio Pacchio’ from the à la carte menu, which perfectly demonstrated the kitchen’s ability to take classic preparations and make them sing with contemporary flair.
That Dessert Though…
Now, I need to talk about Trivet’s signature ‘Hokkaido Potato’ dessert, because honestly, it’s the sort of thing that sounds absolutely bonkers on paper but makes perfect sense once you taste it. A baked potato mille-feuille paired with saké and white chocolate ganache, accompanied by butter and saké gelato. I mean, who thinks of these things? And more importantly, who makes them work so brilliantly?
It’s absolutely delightful — a perfect marriage of the familiar and the exotic that challenges your preconceptions whilst delivering pure pleasure. If someone had described this to me beforehand, I’d have thought they were having me on. But it works, and it works magnificently.
Service: Warm Without the Stuffiness
The service at Trivet strikes that lovely balance between being attentive and actually letting you enjoy your meal in peace. Our servers were warm, friendly, and knowledgeable without being the sort who hover about making you feel like you’re dining under surveillance. You know the type I mean.
There was a slight hiccup with some sides that didn’t arrive for our table of six, but with such generous portions already gracing the table, we barely noticed. Plus, to be perfectly honest, we probably didn’t need them anyway — there was already more food than our eyes were bigger than our stomachs could handle.
The Wine List: Impressive yet a little Intimidating
Now, let’s talk about the wine list — all 72 pages and 350+ bottles of it. Yes, you read that correctly. When our server handed us what could generously be described as a wine novel, I’ll admit I felt a momentary panic. With wines from practically every corner of the globe, it’s the sort of list that could have you paralysed by choice for the better part of your evening.
Fortunately, we decided to play it safe and opted for classic French white and red wines — sometimes the tried-and-tested route is the wisest but not exciting, particularly when faced with such an overwhelming array of options. The list also boasts an impressive selection of cocktails and even sake, which is rather unusual and speaks to the restaurant’s attention to detail.
It all makes perfect sense when you discover that co-owner Isa Bal is a Master Sommelier — clearly someone who takes their wine seriously. Whilst the sheer volume might be slightly daunting for those of us who aren’t wine experts, you can rest assured that every bottle has been carefully selected by someone who absolutely knows their stuff. Just be mindful of your choices, though — many don’t come cheap, so it’s worth having a proper look at the prices before you get carried away with your selections.
Those Little Extras
Trivet doesn’t forget about those small touches that make a meal good, let alone memorable. The amuse-bouche and petits fours bookended our meal beautifully, each bite demonstrating the kitchen’s attention to detail and commitment to the complete dining experience. It’s these thoughtful additions that remind you why you’re eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Let’s Talk Money
Speaking of prices, let’s be frank here — this is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, you will need to raid your piggy bank and check down the back of your sofa for change before visiting. I think it was James Martin who once said, ” What difference does an extra star make? £10 per dish!”. However, we primarily ate from the lunch menu, and the quality of the dishes served represented good value for money.
Final Thoughts
Trivet represents everything that’s exciting about London’s current dining scene. It’s unpretentious yet sophisticated, accessible yet challenging, familiar yet surprising. In a city where two Michelin stars often come with an atmosphere of reverent hush and intimidation, Trivet offers something far more valuable: the simple pleasure of exceptional food served with genuine warmth.
If you’re after a dining experience that prioritises what’s on the plate over what’s on the walls, Trivet delivers in spades. It’s a gentle reminder that sometimes the most memorable meals come from the most unexpected places.
Just don’t expect to spot it easily from the street — but then again, the best-kept secrets rarely announce themselves, do they?
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